L’Apologie ou la Défense des Paniers.
A Paris: Del’Imprimerie de Valleyre, pere, ruë de la Huchette, à la Ville de Riom, [1727]. First edition. Unbound as published. 8 p. Loose, likely removed from a larger volume. Dated on the title page by a contemporary hand (5 7-bre 1727). Paginated by the same hand at the upper outer corners. Trace of creases at the corners, tanned paper. Overall in very good condition.
A scarce 1727 pamphlet defending the controversial hoop skirt fashion; a bold assertion of feminine autonomy.
“L’Apologie ou la Défense des Paniers” is a rare and significant pamphlet that addresses the controversial fashion trend of "paniers"—hoop skirts—prevalent among women in early 18th-century France. This 8-page document, serves as a staunch defense of the panier, a fashion item that had become both popular and contentious by the late 1720s.
The text is structured as a rebuttal to the numerous criticisms and satirical attacks directed at women who embraced this fashion. The author draws comparisons between male and female dress, pointing out the absurdity of condemning women’s attire while ignoring the eccentricities of men’s fashion of the time. The pamphlet argues that the paniers are no more ridiculous or impractical than the heavily ornamented coats and trousers worn by men, which are also described as cumbersome and peculiar.
In its broader cultural context, “L’Apologie" reflects the intersection of fashion, gender, and societal norms. The text defends the right of women to choose their fashion without being subjected to moral or aesthetic judgments by male commentators. The panier had become associated with theater and public spectacle, particularly through its adoption by actresses and dancers, which further fueled its controversial reputation.
The pamphlet also touches on the influence of the clergy, which had begun to criticize the panier as a symbol of moral decay. Despite such opposition, “L’Apologie” positions the panier as a legitimate and even necessary part of women’s dress, embodying a broader defense of feminine expression and autonomy in the face of societal pressures.
This rare edition offers insight into the early 18th-century debates on fashion and gender, providing a unique glimpse into the social dynamics of the time. It is an important document for understanding the cultural history of fashion and the resistance against the rigid norms imposed on women during this period.
Literature: Letourmy-Bordier Georgina. Parure et critique sociale : à propos de feuilles en éventail de la première moitié du XVIIIe siècle. In: Histoire de l'art, No 48, 2001. Parure, costume et vêtement. pp. 53–65.; Crowston, Clare Haru. Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France, 1675–1791. Duke University Press, 2001.
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Price: €2,000.00